Monday, 26 March 2007
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African Time
Here is a little Namibian flavor....................Hope all is well and let me know what is happening where you are!!!!!!!!!!!
As April approaches I cannot help but think the days are moving by two or three. Sunrise and sunset seem to blend into a hypnotic palate of crimson, of maize fields, of southern stars and fireside songs...............
Melodious Days
Ominous beauty is the only way I can describe this country. There seems to be a tragic undertone to the charm of this complex land. As you stir the porridge in the early morning at the Red Cross, you sometimes hear the melodic chants of the local Lutheran Church as they drive by, 20 in the bed of the bakkie. They all wear white t-shirts with the picture and date of birth of the deceased whom they sing for and call to. It is the soundtrack of the day as two or three different groups will pass by our broken window; it is a reality I do not know how to define. The questions of the happenings or quality of the weekend are answered in terms how many funerals one went to or if it rained. No one discusses “how” or “why” a person died and almost all were “sick for a long time.” You hum along to the familiar hymns and the term ‘20% prevalence rate’ does not seem to capture the true impact. Young mothers with more than babies on their back enter our office in search of a job, some hope and a little bread as all are scare in Rundu locations. Often we can only supply one or two of the three as budget cut analyses and annual reports consume employee time. I do not know where I fit, but I know as long as verses travel past on trucks moving too slow to turn, I have to learn to be patient, observe and sing along to keep from crying.
Butterfly Meat
It is a hot day and you are not sure who is sweating more, the 10 year old merchant, the ax or the hide taunting the ground as is sways from left to right to left to right, as if asking the flies to dance. There is an old woman sitting under the thatch next to the stand cooking the part of the cow that cannot be suspended on a rope. She looks at me and then at the meat and will the same judging eyes and I can tell she does not think either one is ready to participate in commerce. The little children on the homestead crowd around laughing at my pronunciation of “Ngapi?” (how are you?) as my colleague points to what I think used to be the front, left leg and pauses to greet his cousin as another car drives up. I quickly move as the trunk of the Toyota Corolla pops open and two goats bleat there way out of the back. I am literally in a meatfest as the owners of the above animals bargain there way for the main courses for the next month. The women sit and wait as the men clap and calculate and “Hawe Ove” (No, you…..) for hours. I watch as the flies feed on contested, coveted wares and wonder if my hotplate can handle the rawness of the process. Sonny Boy’s “Balance” is plays in the cuca shop behind and everyone seems to sing along as the final transaction takes place. As we drive away carrying half a cow in plastic bags, I can only see the butterflies in the field behind forming little haloes over the carcasses. It is a harsh and beautiful scene of capitalism and tradition, and whether you fall in the former or the latter, all are hungry by the end and only meat will do.
“Help Me One Dollar”
If you are white in Namibia you will be asked for money on a daily basis from street children, your supervisor, your neighbor on a date, in a taxi……it is very Dr. Seuss when you respond or tell other volunteers about it: “No, I will not, still not in a car. I cannot shall not on the street….etc.” To counter this, I make it point to carry apples or pencils for the children that ask and repeatedly explain purpose here to the elder members of the community in broken Rukwangali. It is a strange and precarious balance between adapting to a culture where it is expected and almost demanded to give part because most have nothing. It creates an atmosphere of fierce competition and the false sense that there is not enough. By the end of the day you either feel used or selfish and neither one seems to serve any sustainable end. The reality that (1) you cannot help everyone, (2) children will be hungry tomorrow and (3) you are different is physically and emotionally taxing. I only hope that my service here will have some consequence and that the impact will help more than a dollar.
Fat Cakes
For only $.08 US ($.50 Namibian) you can buy a little piece of fried paradise. Think of the best donut or pastry you have ever had and then fry it again in its own doughy essence. Then make 100 more have them readily available on every corner in the location or form a ‘Fat Cake Alley” in the middle of the open market. Then when you realize you have enough in your pocket to buy 37, politely ask the smiling lady for a few and watch as she pours what I can only describe as ‘fat cake juice’ (sugar, water, lemon, heaven and a hint of first kiss) on the top. Then take it in its newspaper wrapper and pay no attention to the landmine headline on page four as you bite through the crisp, golden brown coating into the carb-fusion that makes up the core. Jam, meat or fresh fruit can be added keep the magic alive in this food relationship and try to incorporate other foods to avoid caloric overload. I might be the largest Peace Corps Volunteer to return from Africa, but honestly altruistic development never tasted so good!
Wishlist
-children's coloring books/art supplies/pens
-material for a sewing club (bright fabrics)
-lotion (girly kind that smells like fruit)
-candy
-pictures of YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-mixed CDs of all the tunes I am missing
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Miss Maggie Boehly, Peace Corps Volunteer
OVC Project Assistant
Namibian Red Cross Society: Rundu Office
P.O. Box 1562
Rundu, Namibia 9000
Africa
Namibia 101
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Comments (1)
Hi.
I stumbled across your blog today, searching for information about the Peace Corps, and I've really enjoyed reading about your experiences. I've been considering joining the Peace Corps, but I'm still in the process of gathering information about it, trying to make a decision. I realize you probably don't have much internet time, but if you do have a chance, I was wondering if you could tell me a little bit about getting started in the Peace Corps. Was it all relatively easy? Did you have to do any fundraising? Most of all, would you recommend getting involved? I've looked through their website, but I wanted to get an opinion from someone who's out there doing it. Thanks.
Chazley